While writing this note I only have gratitude towards people who made me part of their lives in such a short period.
I have been doing volunteer work along with my treks in some of the remotest areas of the Himalayas and have been fortunate enough to meet some really amazing people around.
Though the pictures and satisfaction on my face may show only the fun side of my travels but believe me embarking on this journey till now wasn't a piece of cake. Staying in these remote areas where most of the time you struggle with basic amenities like electricity, phone networks, food, toilets, extreme weather conditions or not having your own vehicle at all time disposal, or medical aid for any sort of emergency...believe me these are just few mentions. It's not easy if you are not used to living this rough life. But despite all the problems if you still sail through and find peace and happiness then you know the real purpose of your being and why you love doing what you are doing.
I am sure like me many of you keep thinking of leaving their mundane jobs to move their base to the Himalayas to live a peaceful life. I mean who would not want to lead a simple, peaceful life amidst the mountains, along with kind mountain people.
A few weeks of vacation to the Himalayas or to a place that has mountains was never enough for me, I have been planning to leave my job for a long time but who would get the courage to leave everything - 'a good pay cheque end of every month' for a simple life in hills, plus the fear of leaving the routine to something which isn't laid out properly. For me that's why it was one of the toughest decisions to take to leave everything and move my base to hills from Bangalore. Being called a nomad today I keep exploring the unexplored until I feel I have done enough to satisfy my soul:-)
In the last 24 months, I spent some fascinating time of my life at some of the most beautiful places in and outside India and I can very well say it was one of the best decisions I've ever made. Just before Covid came into our life, I spent almost a month in UK - exploring the most scenic countryside, Rajasthan (from Chittorgarh to Mount Abu), Trekking to the upper Himalayas around Kedarnath.
Then finally Covid had blocked the travel gates for many people like me for three months. But soon after lockdown uplifted I packed my bags to be in hills. I moved to Uttarakhand to a place called Auli and made that place my base to trek around to various region.
Life in the hills for a city girl wasn't easy initially, with all the things we take for granted on a daily basis have made me realize what people in the hills really go through for their living. I learned a great deal today how much we all need to take some time off from the chaos of our lives and make time to do things we love. Most importantly, I got to live the bliss of childhood again when outdoors won over indoors for all of us. Although I used to live in the city for the most part of my life but, my heart and soul were always outdoorsy. I made sure to spend my weekends or my daily mornings in the greens. But I guess that wasn't enough for this Pahadi soul so when this opportunity came my way of working from a remote location I just jumped off to grab the plug.
I chose this place 'Auli' not because other places are less prettier than here in the Himalayas but I felt some sort of spiritual connection with this place which pulled me every time I used to think of mountains. This quaint little mountain village/town has set the bar way too high for me now that tomorrow if I ever be choosing to settle in one place in mountains I would surely be considering this one first:)
Auli is popularly known for its fascinating slopes and awe-inspiring views of the Himalayan mountain ranges, Over the years it is known to be one of the most popular skiing destinations in the country.
Located in the Chamoli district of Uttarakhand, and has been attracting visitors and adventure seekers for a long time now. The place can be reached easily by various modes of transport as it is well-linked with other parts of the country via air, rail, and road. Jolly Grant Airport and Rishikesh railway station are the nearest aerodrome and railhead, serving Auli respectively. Will share some details with you all on how to get here below.
Though I have always been obsessed with mountains as a child but never thought I would be living here for good. I would like to share my personal experience on how this has changed my way of looking at things, what are the challenges, and what is the outcome:
Living the dream life, which comes with challenges:
As I said this dreamy world of living in mountains isn't a piece of cake, you have to do everything on your own here. Not just from cooking your own food which I used to do anyways back in the city, but to buy groceries/basic necessities from the bigger town (which was around 8-9km from the place I was staying) this used to be a challenge since I didn't have my own vehicle, or to wash my clothes with icy cold water and than wait for them to dry since this place always has untimely rains and cold weather, you have to manage the garbage produced, so you don't leave behind any trace. Since I was living there during the Covid period most of the restaurants around here remained shut or were under renovation, so cooking home food or being dependent on the homestay people were the only choice left for me. I wanted to become part of their community since I was living there, so volunteerly I used to pick up work which the locals used to get involved in since I really wanted to learn the Pahadi way. I did not want to do anything differently than how the mountain people were doing it. I learned to cook a few Garhwali dishes, Uttrakhandi Dance, what they do to chill in the evenings, cut grass or grow veggies in the farm.
Being a trekker who is also now living a life in the mountains, walking long distance uphill or climbing stairs was a daily affair . Believe me if you are choosing mountains to live don't look for alternative way just gear yourself for this life. I learned to dispose of my own trash that is collected as biodegradable (ends up in compost pit) and non-biodegradable (burnt at a designated space) separately. I understood the importance of living a minimalistic lifestyle and how little we need to live a happy simple life.
Walking long distance and living active life like mountain people
Thanks to my genes I was never a lazy person. Getting up early was never a challenge for me. I was always known to be 'Miss perfect' or a doer at home so living in mountains on my own wasn't that difficult. Though I know the comfort of the city (I can say that today after comparing my city life with this mountain life) doesn't require us to move as much as here in mountains. We can order-in food, groceries, clothes and anything we need is just a click-away. This isn't the case here you practically have to walk long distances to buy your basics, though on good days you may get a lift back but still I wasn't ever dependent on that. You just cannot afford to be a couch potato here if thinking to move to a village. Without Ola and Uber or even an auto-rickshaw at your disposal, walking becomes necessary, I guess with so much beauty around to enjoy, these walks seems a little effortless.
Village life works on its own pace
If you have been living in a chaotic city like Delhi/Mumbai/Bangalore etc, village or mountain life seems soooooo slow to you. Village people have the routine of winners..Most of the Pahadis get up pretty early and start with their routine chores. My mornings were to get up early for small hikes around the village where I used to accompanied by local dogs , with my daily dose of Yoga sessions for an hour or two followed by meditation time. Plus my time with two local dogs who were living their in the homestay and few others whom I used to meet on my way to my daily walk routes.
I have realized the fact that I am most energized when I am surrounded by these massive mountains and things I love the most(Dogs). This was the best time of the day for me to wrap my head around and soak myself in the beauty of this town.
The best part of living in a small town/village is that everyone knows each other. I used to be greeted by many locals everyday since they figured I am living amongst them as one of them. Everybody here has time for a cup of tea and a nice little chat. No traffic, no honking, and nobody are ever in a hurry to be anywhere. I remember back in cities I never had time to sit calmly to have my morning teas since you are always in rush but this isn't the case now.
Its soooo much better to breathe fresh air and live in this dreamy land
The peace of a small village against the backdrop of the snow-clad mighty Himalayan ranges is my idea of paradise, and this place is exactly that. The fresh air here has the scent of the forest, and after Delhi, when you reach here the difference will be apparent. The villagers make sure their life is in sync with nature, not built at the cost of it. You are going to be surrounded by forests, meadows, paddy farms, mountains, flowing stream and a sky full of stars in the night.
You can source your veggies/fruits straight from the farms
Garhwali meals + Pahadi food includes simple dal and rice on a daily basis. No matter where you are in Himalayas, you will always find a Dhaba/ Food Point selling this combo. The vegetables are fresh and straight from numerous organic farms around the village which were largely sourced from the local 'Bhotias'. About 3kms from the place I was staying there were a huge number of 'Bhotia' tribe settlements, they have been settled here for decades and over the period of time have intermingled with the local Garhwalis. 'The Bhotias conventionally live in the high altitudes of the Himalayas and are separated into many sub-groups. They have diverse cultures but they have a common Tibetan-Mongoloid like physical appearance and are now settled in different parts of Himalayan regions. This tribe still has preserved their culture to a large extent which shows in their attire, food, and culture.' Today in the upper Himalayas they are not just involved in trekking businesses but also in farming and selling local crafts. The reason for mentioning them here is to give you the perspective of the kind of people I was spending time with besides local Garhwali people.
Its easy to get clean drinking water straight out of tap
The best part about living in the upper Himalayan regions is to get pure drinking water straight in your taps. There is never a water shortage in any of these villages since you get water straight from the glaciers through rivulets/waterfalls. I saw people drinking tap water even though there was a filter around. On enquiring, they said the water comes from the river to the faucet and since the river is always flowing, the water is fresh and full of natural minerals. I realized the taste of the water seems sooo much better and tastier than what I have been drinking over the years in the city.
For all those who are looking to work from remote areas, a quieter spot for reading than your search stops here
Mountains are my daily dose of energy. They just don't give me the energy to stay active but also give me time to think and do things better. Especially when you are living in a place that is straight out of my childhood fantasy. There were so many beautiful scenic spots one can find here to sit and get lost in. My favorite spots were the rooftop and backyard of the homestay I was staying in where I would go up to the roof and be awed by the magnificent mountains around.
If you also dream of living in any Himalayan village here are the things you should know:
How to choose a village?
I chose Auli, as it was 8km away from the touristy Joshimath Town, yet it was very beautiful. Joshimath is pretty easy to reach from Rishikesh with a direct bus or by private car which takes about 6-7 hours. The nearest airport is Jolly Grant (Dehradun) if you are planning to come for a short period. Currently, all major airlines have direct connectivity to the city. Plus for a trekker like me their is enough n more places to trek in almost every part of Chamoli which is good enough for your regular trekking practice.
Most of the mountain villages are away from the main towns so is Auli, I used to get most of my major supplies for the month from Joshimath. Since Joshimath/Auli has a big Army Cant area as well you generally get most of the stuff at a reasonable price. Plus mobile connectivity is much better here than in the rest of Uttrakhand. So it wasn't really difficult for me to work from here as compared to places I go to for treks. It's always a challenge to find the right mix of everything when choosing a hill station you fancy and just go find a beautiful village around it to live in.
Where to stay?
There are village houses available that you can rent or Homestays which provides you clean room with bathroom and kitchen set. Depends upon your requirement you can search places in and around Auli. The rent for a month for a room is between Rs 3000 to 8,000. Most people have a spare room in their houses and do not mind sharing it with guests for a short period of time. It is pretty easy to find a house, you just have to ask the right questions to the right people. In Auli, I stayed in a place which is call lower Auli near Himalayan Eco lodge with the family who was taking care of the lodge.
Where to eat?
If you are in Auli, you can either cook or eat at the several dhabas/ Restaurants around Joshimath, My personal favorite was Auli D restaurant in the main Joshimath market.
How is the internet in the village?
I was working remotely full-time as a Media professional, while living in this village. And the internet was pretty great. Airtel and Jio perfectly well in this area so if you are planning to take your work along, carry these two connections and you will be sorted. Remember home can be anywhere you wish (with internet :p) in this world.
If you are planning to leave your job and move to a small town/village what are the other options for you to keep yourself busy:
Volunteer – There are several opportunities to volunteer in Himalayan regions. Since Auli didn't have any NGO per say but in my free time I started teaching some Nepali kids who were living their in the neighborhood. You will find enough and more opportunities like that always in need of people to help in the development of the community.
In other places where I am doing volunteer work, which I will cover in my other notes in details you don't get paid for the work, but your accommodation and food is generally been taken care of. But as I said even if there are no formal opportunities available, you can always teach or start something of your own. Give back if you have the time and inclination.
Earn – If you have a skill, you can make money no matter where you are in the world. I met people living in the village who have started their own business, such as an organic store to web development. Being a yoga instructor myself I have taken online and offline yoga classes to make little pocket money. If you are good in writing and photography you can always start your own youtube/insta channel to work as an influencer to provide some great content for people to see. Or if you are good artistically their are many new hotels coming up in this and many other hill station, showcase your work online so that you can travel and give them ideas for wall arts....It is easy, just know how you want to spend your time and still get paid for your talent.
Savings – If you want to take a complete time-out from everything, savings will come in handy. You can utilize this time by doing everything you always wanted to, but never had the time. I have met people who painted, made beautiful music, cooked, learned about organic farming, helped in teaching, wrote and read books.
Things to do
Daily hikes in and around Auli. trek to Gorson bugyal top etc. Auli Gorson Trek is one of the most enchanting treks from Auli to Gorson Bugyal. Gorson has verdant pastures and tall coniferous trees like alpine, oak, and deodar that are decked with a variety of colorful wildflowers. The trail is filled with scenic views that will double the fun of your trekking experience. The unobstructed views of the Nanda Devi peak is an extra perk that one gets during this trek. The Auli Gorson Trek extends for just about 3 km and on reaching Gorson Bugyal, one can camp or glamp (glamorous camping) in the lap of Nature. Auli is full of surprises that you will never have to think twice about what to do in Auli.
Learn Garhwali food and language from locals - Going for a food tour in Auli is one of the enjoyable activities to do in Auli to savour the local cuisine. Auli is famous for delectable Garhwali cuisine in which a variety of dals, leafy vegetables, and rice dominate the menu. The traditional meat dish available currently is the Kachmauli (stuffed goat seasoned with mustard oil, chilly, and turmeric).Other local delicacies of Auli include Bal Mithai ( a popular local sweet), Singhori ( a cone-shaped sweet wrapped in Malu Leaf) and many more. Head to GMVN Complex, Hariyali Restaurant, Roxy Restaurant, Pindari, and Cliff Top Resort to relish authentic Garhwali cuisine.
Go to Narsingh Temple and Shankracharya Temple in Joshimath. This is not to be missed especially Morning Aarti at the temple.
Go to Auli artificial lake side in Ropeway. That's one of the best places to go for a day picnic. The mere presence of the lake in the region makes it all the more beautiful. Whether it is covered in snow in the winters, or is surrounded by a green landscape in the summers, the lake is one of the best spots in the region to spend some time with your loved ones, or even with your own self. And one of the best things to do in Auli is to spend time watching a sunset from the lake. Imagine the sun going down over some of the highest peaks of the country.
Trek to Bhavishya Badri, a little unknown hiking spot for trekkers.
Weekend trip to Valley of flowers and Hemkund Sahib if travelling between June-Oct
Darshan to Badrinath temple and Mana Village. Can stay here overnight so that you cover Charan Paduka and Bheempul along with Vasudhara falls. only possible if traveling from May - Nov.
Day trip to Niti Valley, a little unknown place for many. Also called as mini Ladakh just 85km from Joshimath. One of the best day trip place if looking to explore something near Indo-China border.
Urgam Valley along with Kalpeshwar temple and Vridh Badri. A day trip from Auli.
If you are coming in winters than enjoy learning Skiing here. The expansive snow blankets, and high slopes that rise to an altitude of 3 km along with the strong winds boost up the thrill quotient of skiing in Auli.
Their are some of the best treks you can explore from Auli. like - Kagbhusandi trek, Kuari Paas, Kwani Bugyal, Stroll Around Chenab Lake (many treks around this place), Visit Chattrakund Lake etc..
Paradise for Bird watchers - One of the most euphoric activities to do in Auli is to go on a bird watch tour. Auli and its neighbourhoods like Govindghat, Pandukeshwar, and Joshimath form the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve. The region is surrounded by dense alpine forests which is home to a number of native Himalayan birds like doves, eagles, tits, jays, woodpeckers, spotted nutcrackers, and sunbirds and exotic birds like Redstart, Finch, Thrush, Himalayan Griffon, Grey Bushchat, and many others. The best time to go birding in Auli is during the summer months (April and May) after the snow has cleared. Best Season to visit: March to June.
How to get to Auli-
By air:
Jolly Grant Airport or Dehradun Airport, situated around 220 km away, is the closest to Auli. Daily flights operated by Jet Airways, Air India Regional and SpiceJet are available from major cities like Mumbai, Delhi and Bangalore. Travellers can easily avail of bus and taxi services from here to reach Auli. Besides, the airport is just 20 km away from Rishikesh, which is well connected by motorable roads with Auli.
By road:
Travelling to Auli by road can be an experience of a lifetime as the journey is exceptionally breathtaking. There are regular state buses available for Rishikesh, Haridwar and Dehradun from ISBT Kashmiri Gate in Delhi. Besides, there are regular buses for Auli from prominent places in Uttarakhand district like Pauri, Joshimath and Rudraprayag, among others. Travellers can also hire jeeps and taxis to reach Auli via NH 94.
By train:
Rishikesh Railway Station, about 230 km away, is the closest railhead serving Auli. Trains to Rishikesh are frequent as the destination is well linked to prime Indian cities by an extensive railway network. From Delhi, there are various superfast trains available for Rishikesh and Haridwar on a daily basis. From outside the railway station, visitors to Auli can hire cabs, taxis or opt for budget bus services. The well-maintained NH58 connects Rishikesh with Auli, a smooth journey of about five to six hours.
Best Time to visit Auli - All round the year but since this place gets heavy snow fall during the winter time some of the places I mentioned above remain closed that time so you can either plan your trip from May onwards to see and explore the maximum. Or if you want to enjoy snowtime than post Dec onwards till Feb.
Finally, my take away
This village welcomed me with open arms. Within a week I felt at home. I was living in a place where everyone knew everyone else and were living peacefully. While I was staying there, I met people who were outsiders like me but their roots were from their unlike mine but they never made me feel like an outsider. I have no idea how swiftly the days passed, but I know no two days were the same. I saw and learned something new every day. I lived the hype of a mountain life. I met the kindest of people who would not think twice before helping me with anything I needed. I truly got to live the Himalayan village life for which I'll be forever grateful. This experience has prepared me for good to live in the other parts of the Himalayas I have lived in posts that are more extreme in altitude and remoter than Auli.
