Should anyone be traveling for pleasure right now? This is the question on my mind when I planned my trek to Chandrashilla/ Deoriatal. I was expecting all sorts of questions from friends and family so I didn't really publish anything on social media for a long time...honestly till Mid march 2020 I wasn't sure what’s in store for all of us in coming months, where we will be heading, whether their will be lock-down situation or not, most of these things were unclear till the very last day of my journey.
I hardly had work during that period since it was year end for us plus due to early Covid situation lot of work was getting pushed for later , So I couldn't resist and planned this trek in just two days time from Bangalore not thinking what will happen. I was all excited for my next solo journey. I landed in Dehradun in Morning, booked a cab to reach ‘Kund’ which was my base for a week. During this drive you cross some of the most important confluences in the Himalayas- Rudraprayag, where the river Alaknanda meets the river Mandakini and Devprayag where Bhagirathi meets Alaknanda to form the Ganga. Though this road journey was a tiring one due to heavy construction work which I suppose is a temporary since the work is about to get over soon since this is part of ‘Chaar Dhaam’ road plan but you will forget all this as soon as you you get the first glimpse of some of the most magnificent mountains of Gadhwal.
Devprayag - Sangam (confluence) of Alaknanda and Bhagirathi
Around 4:30pm I reached the campsite. I was happily surprised to meet my long lost friend come trek lead ‘Jagat from GIO’, who has apparently started managing the camps here for few months. I was super excited to see him since I wasn't expecting anyone known as my trek companion on this trek...he is forever smiling, full of life...a young chap but with full of wisdom, Glad to meet him here to exchange some great time talking about life and spirituality.
So the place I stayed is known as ‘Himlayan Eco Lodge Kund’ Incredible place with beautiful surroundings and view- points everywhere. The property is surrounded by mustard fields and different varieties of flowers and plants. The musical sound of river flowing just below the camp site feels meditational and relaxing. At a first look, it didn't look so attractive like the ones I stayed in past on the hills, but as I went around, I felt so worldly, homely and comfortable. My driver had to park the vehicle on the Road and had to descend steeply to reach this resort but that didn't really troubled me being a trekker.
Around Himalayan Eco lodge campsite
The place has got nearly 20 Log huts which were very tastefully made with all basic requirements. Each room has a sit-out area facing the fields with the sound of Mandakini river down below. One could hear the gushing sound of the river all along it was so heavenly just to sit there and relax.
Besides Jagat, I was served all meals by the cook ‘Limbo’ a Sikkimese boy, who was also taking care in day to day management. He was an incredible cook, not that he was cooking anything fancy for me, it was simple yet tasty home- like meals, that’s what I preferred. I rested that night at the camps after chit chatting with both of them, since I was all excited to trek next day to Deoriatal.
Sari Village
Devariyatal/ Deoriatal is a Calm and serene lake, famous for its mesmerizing reflections of Chaukhamba Range in the crystal clear water. Hidden inside the valley the lake is gripped with forest all around.
This is one of those Himalayan treks where you may not go that deep into Himalayan terrain- to glaciers or sources of rivers, but you go further enough to be in pristine wilderness and are able to see some of the most prominent mountains in the Himalayas from very close. These mountains include Mt Chaukhamba(23,500 ft), Mt Kedarnath(22,800 ft), Mt Nanda Devi(25,650 feet), Mt Trishul, Mt Neelkanth(21,600 ft) and Mt Bandarpunch(20, 700 ft).
Madhyamaheshwar temple - enroute to Deoriatal
Devariya Tal is situated in an astounding altitude of 2300 mts above sea leave and surrounded with thick forest on one side and towering Himalayas on the other. A 2.5 kms uphill trek from Sari village (which is connected through a motorable road) takes you to this heavenly place offering tranquility and a panoramic view of the Himalayan peaks.
View from the top of Deoriatal
You can camp overnight at Deorital if you wish to and walk through the jungle treks or come back to town after seeing the ‘Taal’ the way I did . There were no shops/ Tea stalls opened that time when I trekked, but generally during season time they are open from morning till sundown.
Soaking the beauty of Deoriatal
Deoriatal Mythology around the place
“As per mythology, it is the same lake where Pandavas were stopped by a ‘Yaksha’ who wanted them to answer his question before drinking water from the lake.
Deoria Tal is also known as “Indra Sarovar” and it was believed that the Devs (Lords) bathed in this lake, hence the name Devariyatal was given to it. The lake is also believed to be the “Indra Sarovar” referred to in the Puranas by wandering Hindu mendicants, Sadhus.”
Its an easy trek , you can easily finish reaching on the top in less than two hours, by noon I was back in town. Roamed around the town little bit, though most of the places were shut so had no other option and by 2:30 got back to camps. I carried my laptop along so finished some work during the day.
Region: Garhwal Himalayas in Uttarakhand
Maximum height during the trek: Approx 12,600 ft
Best Time to travel - March -April or Oct-Dec
I rate the Deoriatal-Chandrashila trek as ‘easy-moderate’. This means there are fewer difficult sections but you still would need to follow a fitness routine to train for a high-altitude Himalayan trek. But its non technical trek and very much doable even if you have not done treks earlier.
Next day I was supposed to leave for Chandrashilla + Tungnath trek. We started early around 7am. After an hour long drive from Kund to Chopta we reached the spot from where the trek was supposed to start.. Chopta is popularly known as the 'Mini Switzerland' in Uttarakhand and Northern India and is situated amidst thick forest of pine, Deodar and rhododendrons. The drive to this place for exciting, incase you can hire a bike or cycle for this place don’t miss riding here, roads are awesomely favorable for bikers.
The winter was receding but hasn’t totally left yet. I reached early on the spot from where the trek was suppose to start for Chandrashilla, a bone chilling morning since heavy snow fall till mid week of March..
Enroute to Chandrashila Peak/Tungnath Temple
Few facts about this trek:
Chandrashila Peak literally means "Moon Rock". According to one of the popular legend, this is the place where Lord Rama meditated after defeating the demon-king Ravana. Another legend says that moon-god Chandra spent time here in penance.
Tungnath (On the way to Chandrashilla peak) is the highest Shiva Shrine among the Panch Kedar temples. The arm of Lord Shiva came out at this place as per Kedarnath myth.
Chopta was deserted like a ghost town. Not a single soul was seen, after a km or so one tea stall was open...I could only see locked shops and guest houses. Their were hardly two small groups other than me and a forefinger couple I met on the trail during this trek. I knew it was a pilgrim trail from Chopta until the Tungnath temple, only a 5 km walk. Taking a brief stop at Chopta we started towards Tunganath, the trail was not marked this time, so we had to dig into snow and had to put in extra efforts. The soft snow and cold made the situation worse.
Making slow progress, we reached the Bhrujgali campsite at the base of Tunganath around 10:00. A combination of cold, snow and fatigue due to constant trail breaking forced me drop Chandrashilla summit. I was just few meters away from the summit but couldn't finish it...:-( though I was not much disappointed, the views throughout had compensated everything.
Besides I was satisfied by the hard work I had put in with Jagat and Driver (as a team ) to open the trail so far.
At Tungnath Temple
After a brief stop @Tungnath temple which was totally submerged in thick layer of snow, around 11:30 am we started descending from their to Chopta base. We reached at the base around 1:30pm. surprisingly, I figured that was the last day for trekkers to climb in Himalayas. Govt had announced ban on all treks from that day onwards untill further notice. I guess I was lucky enough who managed to see this atleast...We got back late afternoon from this trek to our camps. Rested the later half @the camp absorbing all of it I experienced that day with a hot cup of tea:-)
Next day I roamed around the area in Ukhimath, went to few old temples in the town practically didn't do too many heavy lifting like previous two days. after spending another day in the town I left on the Sixth day to Dehradun since I was not left with any choice after the lockdown was announced..Had to leave my trip companions from this camp with heavy heart promising meeting them soon again on another adventure.
Goodbye for a short period to my Pahaadi friends, surely not for long!!
I was deeply saddened to leave this place after such a magnificent trek and break since I knew I will get stuck in city during the lock-down period. I tried my level best that somehow this trip get extended but I couldn't managed to do so. Anyways whatever happens happens for good I managed to spend a lot of time with my family in Delhi which otherwise I couldn't have managed in normal scenario. I promised my friends from hills to see them soon which I did as soon as lockdown lifted from few states, this I will be covering in my next memoir. Till than keep reading keep spreading happiness!!!