I have been fortunate enough since last month to tick few places which were always in my to-do list, I managed to travel to the 'Land of the festivals - Nagaland'.
After a short trip to Kotagiri in Nilgiris(Tamil Naidu) last week, I started planning for another trip in upnorth to Spiti Valley in Himachal for a week with a friend, unfortunately, it didn't materialize:-( thanks to the bad weather conditions which were making the rounds since a week, so eventually landed up in the other part of the world. No regrets seriously as north east was always in my list but I thought I will only be doing this when I will have longer time in hand to spend and explore North East extensively:-)
Being a mountain lover, I'm surprised I hadn't traveled this part of the world earlier. I guess, it's all because of the political unrest in the region over the years...couldn’t gather enough guts to travel alone:-( But finally I did it!!!
I booked myself with a local trek company '@ChaloHoppo' to get the glimpse of Nagaland. They took care of everything, from my stay, travel and provided me the best guide... who took me to the most beautiful places in the valley...It's a fairly young team who is running the company but highly professional. I highly recommend people who are willing to travel to the Northeast give them a chance they will not disappoint you:-)
I booked Bangalore to Dimapur flight (had a small layover at Kolkata), landed in early afternoon... because of my limited knowledge about this region I was under impression that I will land in some exotic valley the way I did in Bhutan but to my surprise Dimapur was crowded as hell, Roads were in terrible shape and to make it worst was that humid weather which was the last thing I expected...I thought I made a mistake in a hurry until I reached my campsite which was a 4-hour drive from Dimapur airport @ Jakhama (20km from Kohima). The word "Pathetic Condition" may be too harsh to use in describing the National Highways (NHs) of Northeast India but one need to travel by road to understand and feel the true sense of the NHs in northeast India.
It was indeed my most horrible experience of 4 hours one way by taxi from Dimapur to Jakhama on road, such a pathetic road condition where the road is small and Zig-zag with lots of thick dust on the road with little tar (blacktopping) in some portion; there were too many potholes and during the raining seasons you can imagine the state...
I cannot deny that NHAI and State government is trying to improve the NHs in NE but the quality of road repairing and utilization of the sanctioned money may be questionable...It is observed that this route is undergoing repairs for more than a decade but it remains the same with copious of dust in winter and very muddy in summer. I don't know how we will ever be able to promote this part for tourism to the rest of the world which is full of amazing landscapes.
I hope my voice reaches out to the right people and they do something about it...there is so much which the Govt has to achieve before they promote this travel paradise. It is indeed still a hidden treasure for many people like me, I guess Government had never really concentrate in promoting this well like Ladakh/Hampi/Munnar and many more unheard treasures, which are now amongst the most traveled destination across the world..all this is achievable because of the right focus... which is lacking for sure:-(
After reaching the campsite I was welcomed by the caretakers - Kevin and Aphre... their happy faces made me forget all the hardships I had faced on NH :-), Sooner I met our trek lead Arjuna Gadi (a very calm looking fellow with a sweet smile) and few other fellow travelers who were also staying at the camps...some of them got back from the trek and some were planning to do it with me the next day. I am talking about the 'Great Dzukou Valley trek' 📷 [Dzukou valley derives its meaning from the Angami/Mao(Naga tribe name) word which translates to "Cold Water" referring to the ice-cold stream that flows through the valley. This valley is located at the border of the Indian states of Nagaland and Manipur. It’s a spectacular visual treat of emerald green hills, lush forests, serpentine streams and myriad colorful flowers that dot the vast plain valley and its meadows. It is popularly known as “Valley of Flowers of the North-East” or many call it 'Garden of the heavens'. Situated at an altitude of 2438 m above sea level, behind the Japfa Peak in Nagaland. This interesting valley looks like a mown lawn from a distance and is watered by two meandering streams viz Dzukou river and the Japfu river which often freezes in winter. This entire valley is adorned with lilies, aconitum, euphorbia, and multi-colored rhododendrons during monsoon. They envelop the valley floor like a carpet so much that there are times when you can’t see the valley at all.]
It was nice meeting this young happy bunch of adventure enthusiasts who were equally kicked like me to experience this not so popular valley. Next day we all got up early, after a quick shower and breakfast we left for the spot from where the trek was supposed to start. On our way to Viswema Village(20 mins journey from our campsite and about an hour from Kohima main market), we picked our trek lead Vidil( aka Mustafa/ jumping jack/ restless soul, very young looking Naga sportsman and a great trekker) on the way. We reached the village by 8 AM from there we took an off road for about 3-4km to a base from where our trek was supposed to start. The trek is about 7-8 km in total one way(the route which we took was from Vishwema Village)
Note - There are two trek routes for the place. so I will suggest taking one for climbing up and other for coming back.
· Through Vishwema Village - The one we took with total 8km ascent.
· The second one via Jakhama Village - The other route which starts from Jakhama village is a much steeper trek. What I have heard, the first 30-40 minutes is a gentle trek until the rocky stairs arrive in your way. It's a steep ascent through the rain-forest. Trees covering with green mosses...big enough to cover the sky. Be aware of the landslide zones on this side. Just one mistake or false foot, you may end up hurting yourself really bad.
Though because I had limited days/ time I started from Vishwema village and ended there. A 3-hour walk straight up 4000 feet through a beautiful rainforest which brings you to the top of the mountain. At the top is a resting point where we rested for a while. This climbing was steep for about an hour and a half, you take more time than is required as the rocks and climb up are generally wet and slippery due to all-time rains. From there the real valley walk starts. The hike is largely on a flat dry-wet muddy track on the narrow ridge for about 6/7 km till Dzuko trekker's hut beautiful perched on the edge of the main valley. Frankly you forget all this upon reaching the summit, thanks to the unending valley view which won't take your eyes off even for a bit.
Ever wondered what heaven looks like? Ever felt that oh my god this must be what you call the abode of our maker?? That feeling when you are lost of words when you just sink at that moment admiring what all God has created on this earth. You walk through the cleanest tracks, breathing the rejuvenating air, basking in the glow of the bright sunlight, crossing the small streams in your way, getting lost in the melodies of the cooing birds, surrounded by thick forests, the occasional appearance of wild hear, fox or bear makes this place a heaven on earth...
The calmness, the complete silence, the serenity of the surroundings is a complete opposite to the noise, the hustle, and bustle of our average city life. Such is the enchanting Dzukou Valley. You gotta see it for yourself to believe it. Seen enough in pictures but seeing it for real was special. Its an easy trek with moderate difficulty level in some routes, A must visit place and a trekker's delight.
Don't miss the walk into the valley once you're at the top (at the guest house). There's a cave, often occupied by campers, and also a hillock with a cross at the top. we walked on the same day, reached the top than after lunch left for valley exploration...This was worth an experience. you take about an hour to go down and 30-40 minutes coming back. By 5:30ish we got back near our Dorm to experience the sunset view. which is equally magical📷
After an overnight stay at the dorm, we all got up early morning to descent to Vishwema, about 10 am we were back at the starting point of the trek. By 11:30 am we all got back at the campsite in Jakhama. few of the fellow trekkers were leaving for Dimapur straight....but because my flight booked for next day I had almost a day in Nagaland more to spend, so I was told by Arjuna to visit Khonoma Village which is about 20km one way from Kohima.
Kevin the caretaker at the camp took me to this village. The drive was picturesque although the road as I mentioned above was bumpy as hell. It took me almost 2 hours to reach there from Jhakhama.
We passed through beautiful green valleys dotted with villages and terrace cultivation. Finally, we came across a welcome gate built typically in the Naga style. On one side of the gate, there was a plaque describing people who have contributed towards the building of the gate. The writing on this plaque also throws interesting light on the Naga social system.
A lot of surprises awaited us in the village itself once we reached the main village square which had a nice quaint church.
In the world of ever-changing realities, we all secretly crave for some stillness in life, and with that, for visiting someplace like this village which has been technologically forgotten and kept isolated from the real world.
The village of Khonoma, often regarded as Asia’s first green village, can be anybody’s long-nurtured dream of losing themselves amidst nature’s serenity. It was a Sunday afternoon when I reached this place, Naga people are known to be really religious, they make sure there kids go to Sunday mass prayers for sure. I saw a lot of village kids and ladies going for the prayers at the church. I couldn't resist clicking some of the best-smiling faces here.
All around the village as far as eyes could see, hills were covered with wet rice cultivation (as many as 20 varieties of rice are grown in this are). We made our way up a series of steps in the main square and came near a simple white pillar which is a memorial to British soldiers who died when Naga warriors made their last stand against the British in 1879. As per there history, the villagers sacrificed their lives first fighting British forces and later the Indian forces for Naga cause. Now many of them have sacrificed their livelihood for the cause of keeping the village green and maintaining the ecological balance. The Village Council has completely banned log cutting and hunting animals and birds which is in force for more than 10 years now. It is gratifying to know that all villagers are cooperating in this regard. Further up the steps, we came across the remnants of a fort like structure. We spent the rest of our time ambling around the clean roads in the village, enjoying the view of the quaint village houses and the beautiful flowers that seem to be everywhere. Down below we could see a meandering stream. There are hundreds of memorials in the village erected in honor of those who laid down their lives fighting for Naga cause and of those who had contributed for the welfare of the village. The village walk took about 2 hours to complete.
I was told by Kevin that The Khonoma village is a hub of activity in winter when the hornbill festival is held in Kohima. a large number of people visit this village to understand the village life of the Angami Nagas. There are also provisions for travelers to stay in this village. This place is an absolute delight for photographers.
The memories of an expedition to Khonoma is something which every traveler will cherish for a lifetime!
Despite a small world appearance and a village culture, Khonoma offers all facilities to a tourist. The town has its own tourist center, almost every other family here is eager to host people so in case you want to stay in this village don't be hesitant to ask any local, proper walking paths and the many sustainable tourism efforts moreover continue adding to a comfortable experience.
Khonoma also offers immense opportunities for birdwatching, trekking or simply rejuvenating yourself amidst a setting where chirps of birds and crickets and the burble of torrents dominate the soundscape. And if something is still missing you always have the local Angami tribe to learn more about. Explore their achievements in moving ahead from their own traditions and creating a more conserved and sustainable ecosystem. Get a glimpse of their lifestyle and understand how a tribe (the Angami Naga tribe of Khonoma) that was once known for largely depending on nature for their food and hunt on a mass level, gave up on their centuries-old practices and ended up being Eco-activists.
While walking in this village you will see Families display rows of animal skulls in their homes, and other animal parts decorated as their traditional attire. These are believed to glorify as 'trophies'. The more the trophies, the higher the status of the Nagas in the society. In this house, heads of animals such as monkeys, deer, Mithun ( a kind of bison) and wild boars can be seen.
Around 5ish we left for Jakhama.. reached the campsite by 7 pm. I wanted to travel to one more village but after dark Kevin suggested its best to headback to the camps. I was extremely tired to sit and chat with anyone at that hour. Only thing I possibly did was a quick shower and packing for the next day.
Next day morning I had to leave early for Dimapur for my flight back to Bangalore... I was sad that I was leaving this lovely place too early but was feeling miserable thinking had to go through the last treacherous ride to the airport again. Finally, my trip had come to an end...I still can't imagine why Nagaland's inner beauty for the longest time unnoticed by people like you and me 📷
Things to remember :
Weather in monsoon is unpredictable - It would rain surely in the afternoon even if it is a bright sunny morning with a clear sky. Be prepared if going for the trek. plus in this season winds are generally heavy, you will see trees falling and blocking the stone stairs overnight. The otherwise easy to moderate trek turns moderate to difficult trek at such time.
· Traveling during Monsoon(between June-Sep), you will find the valley full of different species of flowers some of the rarest lilies which are bloomed only in this period.
· A small suggestion try and stay for at least 2 nights at the Hut...this will allow you to spend a full day in the valley, which incidentally takes about an hour or more( depends upon the weather) to descend and almost the same time to climb back to the Hut.
· Take your own tents - There are many spots after reaching the trekker's hut where you can pitch your tent for a night stay. I would suggest pitch it on the other side of the hill on the helipad from where you will enjoy the real feel of the valley... All the utensils for cooking and some basic food items are available for rent/buy at this resting point..you can also eat from the hut all of this will cost you not more than 200-300 Rs per plate. Dormitory service where you can sleep would cost you Rs 100 or so per bed. Also, they have two huts which cost around Rs 300 in case you wanna stay separately. They aren't very cleaned though... you have to put your mats on the floor to sleep in your sleeping bags... But seriously such facilities are of no value here. Where the lap of nature is everything, lack of luxuries will not even cross the minds:-) Food is a bit costly up there as they have to carry everything from the foothill villages. A maggie costs around 70 bucks.
· For staying there in the dorm the contact number is 8575821644/8575075130 email id: naame2006@gmail.com. Please contact on these number before planning your trip to avoid confusion.
· All the essentials are available at the rest house but take one torch, lighter, small blanket, sleeping bag/mat,batteries. Don't forget to carry a water bottle, a raincoat, and some snacks to eat since there are no shops on the way where you can buy any of this.
· No Telephone network really works post the top of the hill. So in case you want to make your last call do it here and forget about it atleast till the time you are in the valley.
· Temperature falls on the top at night to 7/8 degrees lower, this I am talking about the monsoon time. Have some standby warm clothes. However,In winter it drops to minus degrees so do prepare yourself accordingly.
· Avoid staying/exploring Nagaland on Sunday as its a holiday, everything remains closed, you will face great difficulty if planning to hire a cab on that day or shop in the town.
· There are two ways you can reach Kohima either the way I did, took a flight from Kolkata straight to Dimapur and drive down to Kohima or a flight till Guwahati, From their take a train to Dimapur at night, you will reach there early in the morning. From Dimapur railway station you will get share Taxi just adjacent to the railway station to Kohima for Rs500 or so. Or else you can always book your own car for the whole trip the way I did. You will reach Kohima in 3-4 hrs tops.
· Most Importantly "Be a responsible human being". Don't leave your footprint in the form of your litter. It’s one of the pristine places we have so let our younger generation enjoy it too in its bloom.
· Lot of people come unplanned or without a guide thinking its an easy trek but a local guide can prepare you for the challenges of this trek...he keep a check of a time to start the trek, where to go or things you need to carry...he will help you with all the basics... if you are not a seasoned trekker I would suggest spending a little money to have a guide will be helpful.
Attractions to visit in Kohima :
· Cathedral Church: An important marker. Walk through the silent hallways of the church and witness the 16 feet crucifix made in wood, probably the tallest crucifix in Asia.
· War Cemetery: Walk around the memory stone engraved to the brave Indian and British soldiers who fought during World War II.
I'd rate it as one of the most beautiful sights I have ever seen. One of nature's best for sure. It is serene. If you're thinking of visiting, don't think, just pack your bags and go!
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