Trekking in Himalayas for me is not only a physical journey but also a spiritual one too. It's the journey what makes the trip memorable… to me that's the absolute truth! Good company, amazing scenery and breath taking views and unending mountains force me to forget all my worries...no matter how aware I may be of all the difficulties which are in store on this path ahead but because of my sheer obsession with Himalayas I tend to forget all that😊
Truly, the most inspiring, exhilarating and rewarding way to experience the captivating and wondrous areas of Tibet and Himalaya are by trekking and mountain climbing.
The Indian Himalayas gives a countless opportunity to the adventure trekkers from all around the world, with its myriad landscapes and challenging treks.
Roopkund trek is one such journey for me…there is a famous analogy amongst trekkers for this trek, like 'Pulp fiction' the greatest Hollywood movie ever(complete entertainer – with action/Drama/Comedy/romance) is to a hardcore Movie buff, for trekkers – ‘Roopkund’ is exactly that quintessential Himalayan trek.
This lake is situated in Garhwal region of Uttranchal(India)…Besides its rivers, rivulets and mountain ranges, Garhwal is famous for its high altitude lakes as well, which hold up a mirror to the awesome peaks that surround them. Not one of the most beautiful, but certainly the most fascinating lake in Garhwal Himalayas is “Roopkund”, the mystery lake. At an altitude of 5077 meters, this glacial lake is about 50 meters in diameter. The lake is nestled amidst panoramic mountain scenery, surrounded by rock-strewn glacier. Roopkund remains frozen for almost all the time of the year. Once you reach on the top you will see remains of human skeleton of scores of men (With the mention of skeletons one gets a morbid feeling, but this place is far from it. The total trek requires 6-7 days on foot with each day throwing a completely different view.)who perished many centuries ago. Many mythological accounts and stories are heard about the remains, they range from Tibetan traders to refugees to Tughluks army, who were on a mission to Tibet, under General Zorawar Singh don’t know how true these stories are but its always fun to hear from locals after long trek near the born fire. With a rich history and a fascinating culture, these towns and villages around Uttarakhand are largely blessed with temples that are pride of the locals. Observing the culture of this town, you will discover the traditions and practices, which are closely monitored and ritually followed. With a hike in tourism since the past decade or so, the people of the region have absorbed diversity and thus are very friendly to tourists. With their compassion and respect for travelers, they will make sure that your expedition is filled with memorable experiences😊
The trek goes steep to Roopkund from Bedni Bugyal and then to Baguabasa which is situated at an elevation of 4,100 meters above sea level….just 5 kms short of Roopkund. The Roopkund alpine lake is situated roughly at 16499 feet above sea level. It's a pretty strenuous and long trek but worth all the pains…you will be climbing from 8-9K to almost 16K ft. This vast change in altitude provides an dramatic change in landscape everyday. This lake is also called Skeleton Lake due to the human skeletons, which have been discovered in and around the lake. The trekking begins in the town of ‘Loharjung’ and takes you through mountains with rich biodiversity and picturesque surroundings of Himalayas.
So lot of people have this question if this trek can be done SOLO -
Yes, you can. Many people did the same and you can also. But, the problem is the food. Beyond Bedini Bugyal, there is no dhaba for food. So if you don’t have your own food, then you have to proceed from Bedini Bugyal to Roopkund and then again return to Bedini Bugyal on the same day. Also remember weather keeps changing in this region I will only suggest you to travel solo if you are an avid trekker or familiar with Himalayas and Uttranchal ranges, else you can plan with one of the many companies out there online. I went with "GIO adventures" like many other treks in past as I trust their team/ management than others because of the sheer professionalism they show everytime. They arranged all the required equipment like tent, sleeping bag and also arranged mules, guides etc. Usually, there are 14-15 people in each of their group. So, in this case, you have to just pack your backpack only with your trek essentials and rest of the things will be taken care by them.
Trek routes
There are two routes for reaching Wan. One of the route is from Rishikesh - Wan - via KarnaPrayag.
The other route is from Kumaon via Kathgodam - Gwaldham - Lohajung - Wan.
The trek from Kumaon via Lohajung goes through Ali Bugyal but extends the route up to about 14 km of climb which is quite stressful but worth every bit because of the view you get to see😊 keep a day or two extra incase you want to camp here in Ali Bugyal..it’s a beautiful site😊
Location: Located in a remote corner of Chamoli District of Uttarakhand State, it is a completely isolated place with no permanent human settlements in the vicinity, at the height of 4750 meters or 15800 feets approx (some reports says 5029 meters, 16500 feet approx). It is surrounded by snow-glaciers and situated near the base of two Himalayan peaks Trishul, and Nanda Gunti. Despite of its increasing popularity, it generally remains inaccessible for six months in a year because of its high altitude and continuous snow.
Best Time to Visit: May Last Week-June and September-October. Expect trekking on the snow in the beginning of May. In fact, sometimes you may not be able to reach Roopkund in the month of May also due to heavy snow. Avoid rainy season of July and August. Again September and October is a nice time to trek here. After October, it is generally not advisable to trek alone because of the extreme cold. After November, expect heavy snow in the area.
Its 08 Nights 09 days trip (from Delhi) though I always suggest people for extra days as the weather is quiet unpredictable here, it’s always better if you keep extra days for this trek.
Trek Itinerary -
Day 1 - Me and my Husband started our journey from Delhi (old railway station Delhi) at night to catch our train for Kathgodam, we reached their early morning around 6:30 am..our group lead and other team members were supposed to meet us at 7:30 am at the station to start the journey.
Day 2 :Kathgodam - Lohajung (240 kms / 8-9 hrs) Kathgodam to Lohganj is a very very long drive…we started early that morning because we knew we have to cover hills in good daylight. driving to the small hamlet of Lohajung (2214 m) was nice but tiring, we picked remaining trekmates also on the way to Loharganj. We finally managed to reach at the lodge around 6:30pm…it was almost dark by the time we got their. Our stay was at some lodge, though it was very basic but we were so tired that it didn’t really mattered to us where we were staying. Overnight: Lodge
Day 03: Loharjung - Didina 2620 mts / 06 hrs walk/ around 9km in distance We started pretty early this morning – after breakfast we all checked out from the lodge…We were told during our briefing only to pick up all the essentials from the local shop @Lohaganj itself as there were no proper shops on the trail… just to give you little more detail about Loharjung – Its a tiny settlement that is sited at the edge of a mountain, this place has a striking view of the basins of Nilganga. It offers a placid and private abode to travelers, most of who pass through here to go across to the other charms of the area. Few restaurants are available here and very few lodging facilities currently. This is where you can obtain permits for your trek and enjoy amidst the serenity of nature.
Our team of porters/ Guide trek lead all arrived at the starting point, we didn't know our trek lead was none other than Padmashri Mohan Singh Gunjiyal, Assistant Commandant (Retd.) who has been recognized as one of the finest skiers & Mountaineer in the country. we were so grateful to be part of this group, the kind of experiences/ techniques he had shared with us was unimaginable, this experience helped us in all our later treks also...somebody with this kind of experience with such humble background,I instantly became his biggest fan...Sir, you a real sports person, Hats off to you:-) even our rest of the team also were well experienced and extremely helpful...all in all one of the best guiding team we had on this trek.
After quick briefing we all finally started our first day of walking. It was a steady climb up to the Loharjang Col, The path was gradually descending, and this made us worry since the organizers had told us that we won’t be gaining much altitude on this particular day. But anyhow we were not complaining for the time being since the scenery was very warm and pleasant and so was the weather. We crossed a small bridge across the river of Raun Bagad it was a beautiful site to fresh n up..stopped there for some refreshments which we were carrying...enjoyed that spot thoroughly as we were the first ones from the group to reach there..:-) Till this point the entire path was downhill , after this point there was a pretty steep climb towards the hamlet of Didina , our camp for the day…Overnight: Tent.
Day 04: Didina – Bedni Bugyal and Ali bugyal - (3354m) Around 14 km trek 6-7 hrs Today is a steep trek through oak trees and large stands of bamboo up to Ali Bugyal. From here one can enjoy an expansive view of the Garhwal peaks. We continued trekking through thick forests until we reached Bedni Bugyal (Bugyal means meadow in the local Garhwali dialect). This forest was pretty dense and sunlight was blocked to the outer fringes. We were told about this - these deep virgin forests, gurgling brooks, breath-taking campsites, miles of undulating meadows and Mt Trishul and Mt Nanda Ghunti towering over them all of this….now finally we were experiencing this live…..this was one of the most spectacular part of this whole trek.
The trail's just to the right of the Didna camp site, hanging over the shoulder of Didna village. You cross the village and immediately afterwards the trail veers right and gets steep. Soon, you are amidst oaks and you can catch glimpses of Didna's rooftops below you. 10 mins later you come across a stream. Stop to catch your breath and fill in your water bottles. This is the last water point and there isn't any water source until Bedni, 4 hrs away. The water's cool and crisp and feeds the Didna village.
Point of cautions - Remember occasionally the brown Himalayan bear can be encountered on this section of the trail, but it is an elusive animal. I am not here to scare you guys but yes its possible in this section of trail😊
Many of the other trekkers were struggling on this steep gradient , but frankly speaking I didn't find this part of the trek that difficult.. Bedini Bugyal is a charming green meadow adorned with a myriad of colorful flowers. Bedni Bugyal brings the most fascinating impressions of the Garhwal Himalayas at its lap with the most undiluted nature’s wonders. There is a lake situated in the middle of the meadow where Hindu pilgrims come to bathe, just few meters away there was a small temple where the devotees pay their obeisance, during their halt at Bedni Bugyal..
The same day we had to cover Ali Bugyal as well. The climb through the dense oak forest was seductive. Sun was beaming light up the moss laden bark of the tress. A brown carpet of leaves had marked the trail. The air was cool enough to make your sweat cold. Around us was a dense foliage of green, and as we climbed further the sweet smell of moist earth lingers around.
By the time we reached Ali bugyal just because of the sheer beauty of this place all our tiredness was gone, you just soak in the mesmerizing sight of the undulating meadows of Ali Bugyal. You are on the top of a ridge that spreads in every direction. Acres and acres of green meadow scooped out of the mountainside.
Clouds drift in from below, glide over the ridge and slide down the either side, all in a slow swift motion. You watch countless horses grazing on the bounty of nature. Foals tearing themselves across the turf in an uninhibited abandon, just being themselves. If you are tempted to take off your shoes and allow the feel of the carpet on your toes, just go ahead and do it!
Point of cautions - There are chances of you to hit AMS (Acute Mountain sickness) – if you get some mild headaches and feverish feeling than understand it’s a sheer altitude sickness. It dawned upon me that day too I was feeling nauseating as soon I crossed Ali Bugyal..I think I didn’t have enough water on my way up…all n all this whole AMS thingy spoilt my evening for sometime.. me and my husband reached at the campsite much faster than rest of the group, though my condition was terrible but I wanted to reach early to relax in the camp for some time...I slept for almost two hours, though I was told not to sleep in that situation as sleeping make it worse but was not able to open my eyes only. I think it was a good call after I got up I was feeling much better… Overnight: Tent
Day 5 - Trek Path Bedni Bugyal to Ghora Lotani Altitude: 11,500 ft (3,505 m) to 12,500 ft (3,871 m)Time taken: 3 hours
It was a comparatively an easy day. Walk while listening to chirping birds and admiring the beauty of our surroundings. After few hours of trekking you will be on other side of the ridge and the view from this point is absolutely stunning. Ghora Lotani on the Roopkund trek is a brilliant campsite and offers you great views all around. We reached the campsite by the afternoon with enough to relax and acclimatize to the weather conditions and altitude. Overnight camp at Lotani.
Day 6 - Ghora Lotani to Bhagawabasa altitude of 14,500 ft (4100 meters)- 4 hours trek
The day’s snow trek will bring you to an altitude of 14,500 ft from 12,500 ft. This part of the Roopkund Lake trek is to be considered as high altitude trekking and you can feel the effects of this during trekking from Ghora Lotani to Bhagwabasa. Shortness of breath, mild headache and tiredness are some very common in high altitude trekking. Trek slowly and steadily, stop for water after every hour for 2 to 5 minutes. A steep and zig zag route takes you to Kalu Vinayak. Compared to the beauty of Ali Bugyal, it is a noticeably isolated location is what stands at Bhagwabasa with stone blocks on all sides of the trail. An array of abandoned stone huts ranging in size can be seen here and were rented out to trekkers in the past. These huts now stand destroyed but yet offer a great view amidst the misty backdrops with abundant cloud cover.it is hard to imagine a more desolate, boulder strewn campsite than that of Bhugu Basa (4100m). It is exposed to icy northern winds that whip around the stone shelter huts. frankly for me it was the most depressing site of this whole trek..because the land looked spooky and dead.
The peaks of Nanda Ghunti, Trishul and Kali Dak can be clearly sighted from here. ..
It was the coldest night ever I have experienced. more than the lower temperature which dropped down to -10-15 or so..it was those crazy winds which made the life tough for us. Visibility at night was almost zero..there were clouds all over the valley..we were scared because next day was our summit day and seeing the situation we knew its gonna be hell of a walk next day. I really want to thank my porter friends, these guys are real courageous lot even in that condition they not just cooked food for us but also helped us arranging our tents..they are my real heroes..I always feel how selfless these Pahadi folks are... our lives in cities are so superficial....
After arranging my tent I just wanted to crash in my sleeping bag..I had no energies left to stay outside my tent in that condition but it was a difficult night to sleep..i just snugged myself inside my sleeping bag and waited for morning to start my summit. Overnight stay in tents.
Day 06: Baguabasa - Roop Kund (5077 m) 16477 feet height takes about 3 – 3:30 hours trek with 5km walk from Bhagawasa.
Our wakeup call was 3:30am to start for summit. The stretch isn't too long, but the entire bit is on snow patches. At some parts the slope is steep but most parts are easily trekkable. It takes about 3 hrs to climb up to Roopkund. Ideally, if you have started at 4.00 am then you are going to get to Roopkund by 7.00. The climb is deliriously exhilarating. The last stretch of climbing over the rocky flank on the left, requires some clambering, but is over in 10 mins. The final bend on the snow shoulder will get your hearts pounding. Roopkund is right over the edge, two minutes away and yet you can't see it unless you get there. A further trek of around half an hour takes to the highest point of Roopkund Lake trek Junar Gali. All our pain, frustration, physical hurdles just mysteriously vanished as soon as we reached to this anticipated and exciting destination.!
The captivating sight was a journey of lifetime & for good 15 mins we were glued to all the mountains around. We did our obvious photo op..and soon started to head back for our campsite at Bedni Bugyal. The views from the alpine camp at Bedni Bugyal extends west across the main Himalaya Range as far as Gangotri, while the peaks of Trisul and Nanda Ghunti provide an awesome backdrop. overnight at Bedni budyal in tents.
Day 7: Bedni Bugyal to Lohajung via Wan.
Return trek from Bedni Bugyal via Wan. You would see the end of meadows after a few minutes. On a clear day, you would be astonished by looking at the Trishul on your way back from Bedni Bugyal to Wan at Kanakdhar. There is a steep descend and then a short climb from Bedni Bugyal. The trek from Bedni to Wan is real fun. The walk is maximum downhill gives an opportunity to enjoy forest trail. On your way you will go through a Rhododendron forest as well. You would have a steep descent for the Neel Ganga. On reaching Wan we drove back to Lohajung from where the trek had begun. Overnight stay at Lohajung.
Things to remember -
Lohajung: 2-3 Guest Houses and 2-3 small Restaurants, Small Market, No ATM, All Mobile Networks (Major Operators Airtel, Vodafone, Idea)
Wan Village: 2-3 Guest Houses and 2-3 small Restaurants, Very Small Market, No ATM, All Mobile Networks (Major Operators Airtel, Vodafone, Idea)
Day 08: Loharjung – Kathgodam (8 – 9 hours drive) After getting to the base camp at Loharjung and finishing the Roopkund trek, you might think of spending a day at Loharjung. This is a great place to relax and chill out..it all depends upon your bookings for train and journey ahead...though we started early morning to reach Kathgodam as we had train bookings for the same day evening.
To sum it up, what you feel once you reach to the summit is Adrenaline pumped up, breathtaking, mystical, spiritual, and sheer epiphany of beauty of the nature. Probably the best place to fill up any void. Once you reach there, you can literally understand why the lake of skeletons is popularly known as ‘The mysterious lake.!’.
Medical Advice and Emergency Numbers
A well-equipped first aid kit will be accessible with the guides throughout the duration of the trek. I recommend that you carry your own individual resource of first aid items such as medicines, antiseptics, insect repellents, prescription drugs etc. please do read about CPR and other common medical knowledge about altitude sickness (Acute Mountain Sickness)before leaving for this trek.its very essential to be aware of the weather. This illness is associated with trekking with symptoms that range from headache, insomnia, gastrointestinal issues, lung problems, ataxia etc. Incase you are a heart / BP patient firstly I will never suggest any high altitude trek..incase you are still very keen to go please consult your doctor before your trip to procure prescription drugs for such possible situations and only consume them if required, as they are powerful and have strong effects, especially if taken during your trek.
Advice and Expectations
This expedition is the perfect experience to enjoy the thrill of the Himalayas yet it holds extreme conditions and is generally considered to have a moderate to hard level of difficulty. Prepare thoroughly with regard to clothing and other protective gears to endure the unpredictable mountain weather, as it may get very cold. Keep your trekking gear safe and always keep essentials such as wind-proof jacket, dry socks and caps at hand. Make sure you choose correct and good quality waterproof footwear and fitted boots to avoid frostbites. Wear the right kind of socks to facilitate blood circulation. Carry a sturdy sleeping bag that is durable and comfortable. Carry a good quality backpack that can ensure harsh conditions of wear and tear, especially with a plastic or waterproof lining. Carry your identification proof as you might be expected to furnish it with the officials.
Things To Carry
– Durable good-quality waterproof trekking shoes – Camping shoes for crossing streams – Thick woolen socks – Thermal inner wear – Heavy fleece clothes – Torch/ headlamp/ lamp for tent will be more helpful – Whistle/ walky talky if interested as there are no mobile signals – Covers to store used/wet clothing – Winter jacket and water proof coat – Trekking pants – Woolen cap, gloves, etc. – Sunglasses – Sun screen lotion and other toiletries – Water bottle – Trekking pole/ sticks – First aid kit – Personal medication – Swiss knife
Trekking Important Information
· The trek to Roopkund Lake is a high altitude trek and proper fitness and rest is required to complete the trek. The trek becomes more difficult during the winter season. Proper prior acclimatization is required for completion of the trek. One of the best way is to drink a lots of water during the trek even during the winter.
· It is better to take along good porters, mules and guide during the trek. Carrying a backpack can be quite a pain during your 4 days climb to the Roopkund Lake. Porters can be handy while mules can carry 3 times the load so think what you need during the tour.
· The trek becomes unmarked during winters due to snow so a guide is very well needed for completion of the trek.
· The local languages spoken are Garhwali and Hindi.
· The best time to visit Roopkund would be from May - June and August - September - October.
· The weather is unpredictable at such high altitudes so do carry raincoats.
Finally I have come to an end of this stupendous trek blog but before I sign off I want to request all my nature lover friends believe me if you think my obsession is over hyped, wear your trekking gears and plan a small trek in Himalayas you will understand why every year, for that little glance, a beautiful peek at the sunrise beyond the mountain or the sunset hovering across the snowcapped peaks of the Himalayas, gives me that sense of fulfilment. I cannot express in mere words! It’s as if there is another universe in itself and I’m tangled in this undying bond, a delirious and encapsulating feeling of childhood, a desire to keep playing with a toy!
Mountains mean a lot to many, and everyone has their story or their connection with the Himalayas! I have many and hope to have some more, each and every year, until I finally decide to be with them forever…
This trek indeed gives a breath-taking view of Himalayan ranges, and it’s mesmerizing from the summit...a must visit place in the northern part of India during summers or winters..
Until then, I’ll keep my head high, hopes to fly and soar by every time they call upon me to pay a visit! Hopefully sometime soon again…
